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by Mirage floors

Engineered Hardwood Flooring – Designed to Provide Great Flooring Stability

Have you ever wondered what engineered hardwood flooring is? It is flooring that is made up of a core of hardwood, plywood or HDF that has a top layer of hardwood veneer that is glued to the surface of the core. You can find engineered hardwood flooring in just about any species of hardwood. The end product has the natural characteristics of the hardwood you selected instead of just a photographic layer. This engineered product has been designed to provide the flooring with greater stability, especially in areas of moisture or heat that would pose a problem for conventional solid hardwood flooring.

The difference between a laminate flooring, solid hardwood flooring and engineered hardwood flooring is this: a laminate core floor is usually made of High Density Fiber or HDF. The top layer is a photographic layer that mimics the appearance of the product it is replicating. This can be wood, vinyl, or tile for example. This product is usually about 3/8 inch thick and has a tongue and groove locking system that doesnt use glue. This enables you to install and reinstall the flooring several times if you wish. A laminate is the least expensive of flooring options.

Solid hardwood is the natural wood species throughout the whole flooring. This too usually comes with a tongue and groove installation. A solid hardwood floor has good sanding and refinishing capabilities. It tends to be more expensive, and solid hardwood flooring has limitations to where it can be installed due to moisture or heat issues.

Engineered hardwood flooring usually has three or more core layers. The more layers you have, the greater the stability you can expect. The core layers of engineered hardwood flooring can be made of plywood, high density fiberboard or hardwood. The best part of engineered hardwood flooring is that is does not destroy the natural warmth and beauty of a traditional solid hardwood floor. The top layer is the same genuine hardwood you would have in solid hardwood flooring.

You can add the warmth and grace of more expensive solid hardwood flooring at a fraction of the cost when you decide to use engineered hardwood flooring. With all the money you save, you may want to think about remodeling the rest of your home.

Tags: Designed, Engineered, Flooring, Great, Hardwood, Provide, Stability
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Quick Step Laminate Flooring

Copyright (c) 2008 Steven Magill

Laminate flooring is one of the most popular forms of flooring in the world. It is popular because it gives people a way in which they can have floors that look like hard wood, tile or even stone at a fraction of the cost that they would have to pay for floors that were actually made out of hard wood, tile or stone. Laminate flooring was invented in Sweden in the late 1970s but it wasn’t very long before it had become popular all over the world. One of the world’s most popular brands of laminate flooring is Quick Step laminate flooring.

Quick Step laminate flooring is made by the Quick Step Flooring, Inc. Company, which is headquartered in St. Louis Missouri. It is the United States division of a company called Unilin Group, which is headquartered in Belgium and was founded in 1960. This company is known for its wood-based panels, its laminate flooring, its roofing systems and its laminate panels. The company has facilities in Belgium, France, the Netherlands and, obviously, the United States. This company was the first company to introduce a patented technology called Uniclic. Uniclic offers people a method of floor installation that is glueless.

The Quick Step laminate flooring line includes flooring that is made to look like beech, oak and chestnut wood planks, tile squares and both the imitation wood and tile are available in a variety of colors.

The Quick Step official website offers users an interactive menu to help them find the dealer that is nearest to them in location. All users have to do is enter their zip code and then choose how wide of a radius in which to search. Quick step will then return the addresses and information of all of the quick step dealers within that radius.

All of the flooring made by Quick Step is direct pressure laminate flooring. This type of flooring is often considered to be better than the high-pressured laminate flooring because it is better balanced. Each of the different types of floors also comes with an installation instruction manual that can be downloaded as a .PDF format.

Quick Step makes more than laminate flooring; it also makes wall treatments, molding, tile skirting, adaptors and a variety of square noses. They also offer a small variety of cleaning kits for your laminate flooring even though, like most kinds of this type of flooring, Quick Step laminate flooring is very easy to keep clean.

You can buy Quick Step laminate flooring through a dealer or through the website and you can also learn a great deal about the different types of laminate flooring that Quick Step has available. No matter what kind of floor you want to have, Quick Step will help you make it happen. Their products are affordable (certainly more affordable than “real” hard wood floors), durable, easy to install and easy to keep clean. With Quick Step laminate floors you can redo all of the floors in your home in no time at all

Quick-step laminate flooring is very cool laminate flooring brand. Here are first part of how to install it guide. The process is very easy

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Tags: Flooring, Laminate, Quick, Step
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by DRB62

Wood Flooring. Reclaimed Vs. Old Growth Wood. Northern Va, Antique/Reclaimed Wood Floor Specialists. Madera Floors

In the wood flooring industry, the term ‘old growth’ continues to be the subject of interpretation and controversy. At Madera Floors we make it our business to know more about wood than any other company, and to educate our customers so that they can make more informed purchasing decisions. We frequently address questions about ‘old growth’ trees, especially in relation to reclaimed timber. In fact, we have talked with many consumers who thought the terms meant the same thing and were misled into thinking their old growth flooring was the same as our antique reclaimed flooring. Here we define some of the terms and address questions surrounding the mystery of ‘old growth’.

Old Growth refers to established forests that, up until the time trees are cut, have had little or no disruption. Advocates of cutting old growth timbers suggest that pruning selected trees is good for the forest. We disagree. Old growth forests maintain themselves through a natural process that does not include cutting into the delicate fabric woven by nature.

How Old is “Old” Growth? The actual age that determines “old” growth varies depending on the specie, but it refers to the age at which a tree has reached its maturity. For an eastern white pine, it is between 130-150 years, while many of the hardwoods reach maturity at 80 years. But, what is most important is that at maturity and thereafter the old growth tree is still contributing to the ecosystem in which it lives.

Virgin Growth refers to dense stands of various species of hardwood or pine trees that are indigenous to their habitat; they have never been harvested. Many virgin forests are protected, but tragically there are also many that are still being cut today for purposes that include mass-produced wood flooring. Essentially, virgin timber is old growth that has never been cut, while old growth may or may not be virgin timber.

Reclaimed Wood is also referred to as Antique wood, and for us the terms are interchangeable when describing the wood we use to make our floors. We agree that old growth flooring is beautiful; however, we prefer to reuse this majestic timber that was originally cut to build structures that have shaped our history in the United States and in interesting places all over the world.

“Deconstruction” is the core of the reclaimed wood industry. The emphasis is on utilizing materials that have outlived their usefulness and would otherwise be demolished, discarded or left to decay. Deconstruction helps to close the resource loop that we now realize is so valuable in this world of finite resources.In recycling this precious material there is a significant positive environmental impact.

Deconstruction differs from ‘demolition’ in that it is a painstaking process involving the selective dismantlement of building components. We work with experts who carefully manage dismantling projects to preserve the grand dimensions of the beams, posts and floor joists; this will be reflected in your floor as we work to maintain the superior widths and lengths of these ancient timbers.

Demolition, on the other hand, is unfortunately the more common method of taking down a building. Implosion or ‘wrecking-ball’ style demolition is relatively inexpensive and offers a quick method of clearing sites for new structures. Consequently this process results in significant waste and unusable material.

For more information please visit our website at

www.maderafloors.com or our blog www.maderafloors.blogspot.com

Thanks

Tags: Antique/Reclaimed, Floor, Flooring, Floors, Growth, Madera, Northern, Reclaimed, Specialists, Wood
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by bsabarnowl

Laying Reclaimed Wood Flooring In Your Home

Having reclaimed wood flooring adds something special to your home, bringing authenticity to an older home renovation, or instant ambience with a rich patina for new construction. There are also a number of advantages to having a wood floor, beyond the conservation aspects of using reclaimed boards when laying the floor. For those who are seeking authentic reclaimed wood flooring, there are some really great products on the market today.

About reclaimed wood flooring

Reclaimed floors are simply floors made with repurposed wood. When an older home is being restored or refurbished, wood floors that are in keeping with the historicity of the structure are generally seen as more desirable than a modern floor which may take away from the character of the home. If you have an older home, you may also want to do any reno-work to the home in such a way that your work is in keeping with the character and period of the home. In this instance, the use of reclaimed wood is a good option to achieve an authentic finish.

The benefits of a wood floor

Wood floors are a good option if you require something which is durable and which adds to the appeal of your home. A wood floor can be easier to keep clean than carpets, as it is finished with a durable coating which protects the wood from stains and spills that would typically ruin carpet flooring. When choosing wood there are different types of wood, with hardwood being the most beautiful and wear-resistant. The downside of this is that it is more expensive, while pine flooring although slightly less hard is often less expensive. Ultimately, when choosing a type of reclaimed wood for your home, the type of wood already in your home may influence what type of wood you choose. The one surprising trend is the emergence of engineered reclaimed flooring.This involves a process where a thick layer of actual reclaimed wood flooring is bonded to multi-ply wood sheet.This greatly reduces the cost of the reclaimed wood flooring, and also results in a greater yield of the antique flooring.

Where to find materials for reclaimed flooring

There are a number of sources for reclaimed floor materials. If you are going to arrange to have the floors laid, but find the materials yourself, then you may want to look for materials being sold from schools, churches and other larger, old buildings that are undergoing refurbishment. The advantage of finding materials from larger buildings is that there may be more longer lengths of wood which can be cut to fit. However, it may be nearly impossible to find a company willing to mill the flooring for you as all reclaimed wood has to be hand inspected to remove metal from it.the old nails etc will cause major damage to the milling equipment.Alternatively, you may find it simpler to speak with a company that specializes in reclaimed wood flooring. You may also find that if you discuss the option of using recycled materials that are in keeping with your home, the company laying the floor may also be able to source the materials for your home improvement project.

With a bit of planning, it is possible to find the materials you need to ensure you have an attractive and authentic wooden floor. The sourcing of materials to achieve the look you desire is often much simpler than you may imagine. Finding a professional who is familiar with laying reclaimed wood flooring may also help you when it comes to acquiring the materials to carry out home renovations and improvements.

Related Sold Wood Floors Articles

Tags: Flooring, Home, Laying, Reclaimed, Wood
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by FactoryHardwood

Engineered Hardwood Flooring

Introduction:

Engineered Hardwood flooring is a beautiful addition to your house. Engineered hardwood is true wood, but alternatively of a single object consists of 3 to 10 thin layers of wood pasted with each other and are called cross-layer form. The thickness of upper layer is ranging from 1/16″ to 1/6″ and the full thickness of the plank is ranging from 1/4″ to 3/4″. It has the more benefit than a pure wood because of its multi-ply form.

It has smaller shrinkage and increase in width under the variety of humidity and temperature. They can also put in humid areas and in under ground as well.

Engineered floors were first developed in 1960. The right thing is that it is available in different finishes, wood types and thickness.

Engineered hardwood flooring is not advised in bathroom and laundry where moisture is available all the time. It is really strong and its multiple layers make it more resistant under any situation. It can be used at any room under ground level or aboveground level. It can be sanded and refinished at one time or twice in its whole life.

Types of Engineered hardwood Flooring

Oak hardwood flooring is in expansive and gives your house a heavy look for fewer prices.
Bamboo engineered hardwood flooring is very inexpensive and its look green.
Maple engineered hardwood flooring is a smooth coating and looks great in living, dining and in family rooms also.

Prep Tools

Tools Used When you’re starting to install the floor you need some common tolls, which will be used during installation.

Saws·
Adhesive agent
Emery paper
Hammer and block
Nailer and stapler

Advantages:

There are several advantages of engineered hardwood flooring are given below.

It is the clear option for those areas where real hardwood is not suggested like interiors of houses and office.
It is a good choice for to a lower place-grade Area like in basements, where humidity is more than other areas of the house.
It also can be very right for those areas where the radiant heating plant system is placed.
Engineered hardwood Flooring can be sanded after lines.
It has no shrinking and expanding power under uncommon temperature.
It can be installed instantly on the concrete sub floor.
It is the better choice for geographic areas where weather atmospheric conditions are extreme.
It has been slighter mess up also with people.
It is quickly in fixing, which saves the time and labor price too.
Engineered hardwood flooring is durable and come with as much as a 25-year guarantee.

Disadvantages of Engineered hardwood flooring

Cost:

It is more pricy than other hardwood flooring types

Maintains:

It cannot be sanded more than 3 times.

It needs an experienced person for sanding

Appearance:

During the finishing in the workshop sometime the top layer of ply has different grains than a genuine wood.

Durability:

Its top layer is very thin so more chances of a scratch on it and harder to restore it.

It cannot be fixed at all in Areas where water flood frequently.

Co-Founder Rob Banks hosts this overview of how to install an engineered floor. Take a look! learn.builddirect.com
Video Rating: 4 / 5

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Tags: Engineered, Flooring, Hardwood
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by Wonderlane

Create Comfort with Carpet Flooring in Arlington, VA and Alexandria, VA

When it comes to flooring, Arlington, VA expert installers will get your job done right so you and your family can enjoy luxury under foot in every room you want carpet flooring. Alexandria, VA, stores are filled with carpet choices for every purpose. Remember, there are different qualities you can select in your carpeting. This includes stain or dirt resistance, crush resistant fibers, high traffic area durability, and other important extras. Many manufacturers of carpet flooring have added some of these elements into the fabric at the manufacturing plant. Scotchguard or Teflon treatments are popular extras that are included in many styles of carpeting. These chemicals make keeping the carpets clean easier because dirt cannot get embedded into carpet fibers.

New recycled material carpet flooring Alexandria, VA, vendors sell is created to be environmentally kind. Many of these carpets can also be recycled when their long lifetime is over, thus reducing stress on landfills. Most new carpeting should last about 20 years under normal use conditions and will add value to a building. Making a good choice of carpet flooring in Arlington, VA, is simple because the sales representatives have all the latest information about new carpeting from the manufacturers. They can explain to you all the important details you want to know about carpeting. Choices are important because carpet flooring will remain in use for decades in most buildings.

For example, look closely at fibers that make up carpet flooring. Arlington, VA, carpet installers will use specially treated carpets in areas where there is high foot traffic or the likelihood of dirt being tracked in at entranceways. Fibers in these carpets are coated with special chemicals that help reduce static cling or penetration from airborne contaminants and microscopic particles or allergens in the air. Other carpet flooring may have the same protection in their fibers, but the carpeting could be designed for low traffic areas, such as a child’s bedroom. Carpet fibers can act like an air filter and trap particles, or they can be treated to repel particles for easy pick up with a vacuum.

Padding is another aspect of flooring Arlington, VA, sales representatives can explain. Padding is important for providing support and cushioning underneath the actual carpet layer. Sometimes padding is constructed right into the bottom of the carpet layer, as one piece of fabric. Other types of padding are an individual layer placed underneath the carpet flooring.

Modern carpet flooring is durable, practical, affordable and beautiful. There are remarkable color choices and pattern options in stock and for special orders. Order carpet flooring Alexandria, VA, retailers have in stock for fast delivery and installation, or for special needs, take a little more time to have carpet flooring special ordered to your requirements.

The basics are the same; you can create comfort with carpet flooring in Arlington, VA, and Alexandria, VA. Start the improvements today when you visit your local carpet flooring store.

Tags: Alexandria, Arlington, Carpet, Comfort, Create, Flooring
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Maintenance tips for Amtico flooring!

Amtico flooring is a system of engineered flooring which is extremely durable. Moreover, it comes in a wide assortment of finishes copying exactly all conservative forms of flooring including stone, timber, marble and various other modern flooring alternatives of glass and metallic’s. As far as the construction of amtico is concerned, it is made by mixing together six layers of PVC which makes it a perfect and suitable option for any dry room of your house to wet regions such as bathrooms and kitchens.

The tiles not only provide individuals with a wide variety of designs but also offer choice in terms of patterns and textures as well thus providing an efficient solution for almost every need of a person. Moreover, the fact that Amtico tiles are all manufactured at the same thickness provides individuals with the ability to mix up and match any combination in order to generate their own exclusive flooring design. It will provide an artistic beauty of natural flooring materials. The best part is that the tiles do not get damaged easily. Moreover, it also does not undergo damage from stiletto heels.

It is very easy to take care of the Amtico flooring as the process takes very small effort and time to keep clean and look brand new. Habitual sweeping or vacuuming is one of the best ways of keeping these floors clean thus maintain their charm for a longer time period. It helps in removing dust and grit from the floor which is a basic step to care for floor. In addition to this, a regular weekly wipe with a moist mop is also compulsory depending upon the color of your flooring and your family’s standard of living.

The weekly cleaning command for any of the finishes or textures of Amtico flooring comprises of sweeping or vacuuming. Thereafter, Amtico Cleaner diluted 1:30 either with a spray bottle or a damp mop is applied. Finally, the floor is mopped with a dry mop. Always, wash your mop regularly and also keep changing the solution in your bucket whenever it gets dirty. Rub with a scouring pad designed for non-stick cookware in order to remove any scrape marks.

If you want a semi gloss finish instead of standard matt finish, you should consider dressing of new Amtico floor. Thus, it becomes clear with the above discussion that the process of cleaning and maintaining these floors is extremely easy and hassle-free as well. One only needs to keep some of the major points in mind in order to achieve better results in this regard.

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Tags: Amtico, Flooring, maintenance, Tips
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by origamidon

How To Fit Solid Wood Flooring

How to fit Solid Wood flooring

It is important to start any flooring installation by firstly planning out the room and deciding where to start. Many rooms offer what at first appear to be very complicated situations to overcome. Don’t worry too much about these, all situations have a solution which are covered in this section, alternatively further information can be found in the handy hints and tips section.

Planning:-

When first presented with a room or area which is to be fitted with Solid wood flooring some key factors will help you to decide where to start your installation. Door ways, shape of room and locations of main window are all factors to take into consideration as well as the subfloor (existing floor which is to be covered with Solid wood floor) here are some rules and suggestions:-

Rules –

When laying Solid wood flooring on top of existing floor boards always lay the planks at 90 degrees to the floor boards

It is important not to end up with a piece of flooring at the end of a row which is less than 5cm in length or to have the last row less than 5cm in width. To avoid this measure the room’s width and length and divide the results by the dimensions of the flooring being installed. It may then be necessary to start the first row with a half plank or even to cut the width down to accommodate the area

An expansion joint will need to be inserted into any floor area which is larger than 8m in length or in width, in effect creating two floor areas

Acclimatise the boards in the room they are to be laid in for a minimum of 48 hours. The room should have a relative humidity of between 45% – 65% and a temperature of between 18C – 20C

Suggestions –

It is generally accepted that the best visual effect when installing Solid wood flooring is to lay the boards in the direction of the light source; so towards the main window (not forgetting rule 1 above)

It is also suggested that the floor should run along the longest wall of the room giving the best overall effect. (again take note of rule 1 above)

When laying a floor across a door way it is best practise to start at this point and work back into the room

Installation guide:-

Once your planning stage is complete it is time to prepare the room starting with the subfloor. It is vital that the subfloor is in optimal condition to allow the new floor to perform as expected and help to maintain its longevity

Subfloor preparation –

The main factors to consider are the smoothness, dryness and overall levelness of the floor. If the subfloor is uneven then the new floor will not last long as the pressure on the joints will cause the boards to separate

For concrete floors make sure that they are dry (it takes approx. 1 day per 1mm of wet concrete to be considered dry enough for a Solid wood floor to be installed). The relative humidity of the floor is also vital it should not exceed 85%

For wooden subfloors, ensure there is no movement in the floor. Any loose floor boards should be nailed or screwed securely in place. WBP (water and boil proof) ply can be used over existing floorboards to provide a suitable subfloor surface

All floors must be smooth and level

Finally all debris must be cleaned and the surface of the subfloor must be free from dust and other contaminants

Installation Techniques:-

There are three main ways to install a Solid Wood floor,

Secret nailing

Gluing directly to the subfloor

Installing the Solid wood onto a self adhesive underlay

All of these methods are perfectly acceptable methods of installation for a domestic application, each method has its benefits and draw backs. It is often the subfloor which will help to determine which installation is best suitable.

Installing the floor planks – Secret nailing –

Secret nailing a wooden floor is a method usually chosen when the existing subfloor is wood or when installing directly to joists. Solid wood flooring should have a minimum thickness of 21mm if it is to be fitted directly to joists.

It is possible to use the secret nail technique when the subfloor is concrete or screed. A damp proof membrane (DPM) needs to be placed over the concrete followed by an 18 – 24mm WBP plywood sheet.

Start the first row by loose laying the boards parallel to the wall allowing a 15mm expansion gap. Begin by resting the fitting wedges up against the wall to give you a 15mm gap. This is vital as the Solid boards will expand and contract after installation and if this gap is not present the floor will lift and buckle in the room. The wedges are removed after installation is complete and the gap is covered with either skirting or beading

At the end of the first row you will undoubtedly need to cut a board to length. A good way to measure the length of the board required is to rotate the loose board by 180 degree (facing upwards) so that the tongue is facing the tongue of the previous row. Rest the board next to the first row then mark and cut the boards to size.

(NB. When cutting Solid flooring ensure that a new blade is used)

Once you are happy with the alignment, ‘face nail’ the boards into the subfloor at intervals of 250-300mm or onto every joist. Face nailing is nailing through the top of the planks into the subfloor, counter sink the nails and fill in the dimples with wood filler.

Depending on the tools used and the width of the flooring installed, it may be necessary to face nail two or three rows before secret nailing can begin.

Continue laying rows of planks down ensuring that you keep the 15mm expansion gap around the perimeter of the room. Stagger the boards so that the end joint of each row is further than 150mm apart (brick bond)

Keeping the nails at a distance of 250 – 300mm, secret nail the planks into the subfloor. Secret nailing is a method where planks are secured through the tongue of the boards at a 45 degree angle and counter sunk to allow the groove of the next board to fit tightly. Mechanical nail guns are the best way to achieve professional results and make installation a lot easier.

The final row can be measured and marked to size using the following technique; firstly place the board to be marked directly on top of the last row laid. Place another plank on top of the loose plank but this time have the top plank pushed up against 15mm wedges against the wall to give you the correct measurement allowing for expansion. (be careful not to move the board to be marked) now draw a line along the edge of the top plank marking the board underneath.

The last few rows will also have to be face nailed as there will not be enough room for secret nailing.

Installing the floor planks – Direct gluing –

Direct gluing is a suitable method of installation when fixing on top of a concrete or screed subfloor. One benefit is that the overall height of the new floor is kep to a minimum as there is no need to install an 18mm WBP plywood base. It is also suitable over existing wood floors which are suitably flat and firm.

The subfloor must be flat, firm and level; if necessary a levelling compound may be used. It is important to remember that all subfloors must be dry.

A liquid damp proof membrane must be laid first and allowed to dry.

Using a suitable wood flooring adhesive apply an even coat to the subfloor. A notched trowel held at between 450 and 900 is the best method for this.

Start the first row by laying the boards parallel to the wall allowing a 15mm expansion gap. Begin by resting the fitting wedges up against the wall to give you a 15mm gap. This is vital as the Solid boards will expand and contract after installation and if this gap is not present the floor will lift and buckle in the room. The wedges are removed after installation is complete and the gap is covered with either skirting or beading

At the end of the first row you will undoubtedly need to cut a board to length. A good way to measure the length of the board required is to rotate the loose board by 180 degree (facing upwards) so that the tongue is facing the tongue of the previous row. Rest the board next to the first row then mark and cut the boards to size.

(NB. When cutting Solid flooring ensure that a new blade is used)

After two rows have been successfully installed weigh them down while the glue sets. Any glue which has seeped through to the surface should be removed immediately.

Continue laying rows of planks down ensuring that you keep the 15mm expansion gap around the perimeter of the room. Stagger the boards so that the end joint of each row is further than 150mm apart (brick bond)

Tension straps may be used to hold rows tightly together whilst the glue sets.

The final row can be measured and marked to size using the following technique; firstly place the board to be marked directly on top of the last row laid. Place another plank on top of the loose plank but this time have the top plank pushed up against 15mm wedges against the wall to give you the correct measurement allowing for expansion. (be careful not to move the board to be marked) now draw a line along the edge of the top plank marking the board underneath.

Installing the floor planks – Self adhesive underlay –

Solid flooring can also be laid as a floating floor using a self adhesive underlay. The boards are adhered directly to the underlay which holds the floor together. This method can be used for all subfloor types (following the rules set out above that subfloors be flat, firm and dry) the benefits of the self adhesive underlay is that the room can be used immediately with no drying time required for glue to set.

Lay the underlay at 90 degrees to the direction of the boards ensuring that there are no gaps between sheets but equally important is that the underlay does not overlap. When using the underlay over concrete, first lay a DPM with the edges overlapped by 20cm.

Peel back the foil from the underlay by the width of 2 ½ planks and fold over.

Using the supplied spare foil, lay this over the exposed adhesive surface of the underlay with enough surplus foil facing the wall to fold back over the top of the underlay

Place the fitting wedges up against the wall to give you a 15mm gap. This is vital as the Solid boards will expand and contract after installation and if this gap is not present the floor will lift and buckle in the room. The wedges are removed after installation is complete and the gap is covered with either skirting or beading

Position the first row along the wall and wedges allowing for the expansion gap and ensure that this is perfectly straight. (if the first row is not perfectly straight the entire floor will be ruined) At the end of the first row you will undoubtedly need to cut a board to length. A good way to measure the length of the board required is to rotate the loose board by 180 degree (facing upwards) so that the tongue is facing the tongue of the previous row. Rest the board next to the first row then mark and cut the boards to size

(NB. When cutting Solid flooring ensure that a new blade is used)

Now lay a second row, this will help to stabilise the two rows whilst the foil is removed as well as help to provide a straight line

Once you are satisfied the rows are straight and tightly fitted, peel back the loose foil sheet which will expose the adhesive underlay to the solid wood flooring thus holding the boars in place.

The loose foil may now be discarded. The remaining attached foil will be your work area where new rows will be rested on until you are happy that they are tightly fitted.

Continue to fit the rows down and peel away the foil to fix the boards into place.

The final row can be measured and marked to size using the following technique; firstly place the board to be marked directly on top of the last row laid. Place another plank on top of the loose plank but this time have the top plank pushed up against 15mm wedges against the wall to give you the correct measurement allowing for expansion. (be careful not to move the board to be marked) now draw a line along the edge of the top plank marking the board underneath.

Obstacles –

There are various obstacles you will come across when installing any flooring. The trick is to identify these at the beginning and plan when to tackle them. You do not want to end up at an obstacle where you may need to remove some flooring you have already installed to enable you to deal with the situation.

Door frames are inevitable as almost all rooms will have these. It is necessary to remove a section of architrave and door jam to allow the Solid to be fitted under them, thus hiding the expansion gap away from sight. To do this you will need to place a piece of underlay and an upturned board against the door frame. Using a long saw pressed against the Solid floor begin to cut into the door frame. Make your cut until you reach the wall behind the door frame. Do not worry about cutting into the skirting as the beading will cover this. Remove as much of the door frame as possible so as to allow the right expansion room for the Engineered.

Measure and mark the Solid to fit and then install. When faced with a room where there are doors on both sides of a room and the Solid is installed across the door way it may be necessary to use glue to fit a board at one of these doors. As it is impossible to install the board at 30 degrees and still slide it under the architrave you will need to remove some of the locking joint on the previous row.

Remove the lip along the tongue of the long edge using a sharp chisel. Apply glue to this edge. Slide the board to be fitted under the door architrave and then pull it back into place along the previous row.

Radiator pipe covers can either protrude through the floor or from the wall. If they are floor mounted then the Solid will need to be cut around the pipes with an expansion gap. Measure and mark the position of the pipes on the Solid board and cut the holes out using a 32mm spade drill bit. This should allow for the 15mm pipe and an expansion gap. Then remove the excess Solid to allow the board to be placed against the pipes. The area of Solid removed should represent a keyhole shape. Keep the off cuts of the Solid as these can be glued back into place once the plank is installed.

Tags: Flooring, Solid, Wood
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by sneakymoose

Know Your Way Around Engineered Wood Flooring

Often confused with laminate, vinyl, or veneer flooring, engineered wood flooring is currently one of the most popular solutions for consumers seeking wood flooring in their home. In contrast to laminate and vinyl, engineered wood flooring actually comprises of two or more layers of real wood, with the top layer being the visible material, and the bottom layer providing the stability and support. Engineered wood flooring has grown enormously in popularity due to being typically cheaper to purchase and install than solid wood flooring, whilst maintaining an almost identical quality and feel.

One consideration to make when considering purchasing engineered wood flooring is that it is not suitable for installation in bathrooms or utility areas due to the heavy amount of moisture that the flooring would be subject to. It is however, easy to install using either a click, or a tongue in groove system, and nowadays is available in many different high-quality styles and grades.

Before you purchase your engineered wood flooring solution, there are a number of useful things to consider. First of all, a very important consideration to make is the grade that the flooring is given by its manufacturers. The grade refers to the quality of the wood throughout its layers. For example, a board awarded the grade of AB will typically have a top layer of top quality wood (A grade), which is visible to the user, and a slightly lesser quality layer (B grade) which will provide stability to the plank and not be visible to the consumer. Generally speaking, grade A – the highest grade – should be defect-free, or as close to it as possible, and any splits or small knots in the wood should be plugged or repaired with synthetic filler. As you progress through the grades of engineered wood flooring (the lowest being D), the quality will reduce somewhat, and the number of natural knots, splits and colour variations will increase. A ‘D grade’ board will most likely not have had any repairs or sanding done to it, as is considered as more suitable for back surfaces that are not visible.

Also important to consider when purchasing engineered wood flooring is the board size and the type of finish applied to the wood. Board sizes can vary significantly, and can make a big difference for some who is looking for a ‘chunkier’ aesthetic, or on the other extreme, for someone seeking a finer, more tailored look to their flooring. Be sure to take into account the board size and the quantity of boards in a pack when you come to choosing a type, since this will affect the overall price of the project. It is easily to think a certain board is better value per-pack without realising that it is considerably narrower and that each pack contains fewer boards, which would then necessitate more packs to cover your area.

Equally, when choosing a finish for your engineered wood flooring, make sure to choose carefully so that you are not disappointed by the result, and you achieve the look you are going for. Popular finishes include ‘Clear UV Lacquered’, ‘Handscraped’, and ‘Stained’, and are fairly self-explanatory in their respective qualities. A handscraped board will offer more of a rustic, natural quality, while a clear UV lacquer will provide a more modern, light feel. Choosing a finish goes hand-in-hand with choosing a décor style for your flooring, and both options should complement the other. As well as differing types of wood offering differing colour tones and grains, also bear in mind that different types of wood may be considered stronger or possess different qualities than others. Some of the most popular types of wood used in engineered wood flooring include oak, bamboo, walnut, ash and beech.

Hardwood flooring adds warmth and beauty to any room, and is also a great way to increase the value of your home. At Lowes, youll find a variety of hardwood flooring styles and colors, from domestic species like Oak and Maple to exotics like Brazilian Cherry and Bamboo. Engineered flooring can be installed on any level of the home, but different installation methods are necessary for different types of subfloors. These instructions will show you how to glue down an engineered floor to a concrete subfloor.
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by Ted Ingraham

Why Buy Laminate Flooring ?

The popularity of laminate flooring has gone from strength to strength since it was first introduced to the UK over 15 years ago. Laminate floors offer a great alternative if you don’t want to make the investment into hardwood flooring, but want to create a difference or add value to your home. Laminate flooring can help transform a room or an entrance way into a spacious and more eye-catching contemporary living area and offers a less expensive and equally attractive option. Laminate flooring is simple to fit and exceptionally practical it can brighten almost any room in the home.

Laminate flooring can be used in rooms of any size from small spaces at home to large office units at work. In homes it is most commonly used in downstairs rooms and hallways however with the introduction of moisture resistant laminate floors its uses have now spread to kitchens and bathrooms as well.

How you decorate rooms often depends on what it’s used for. Is it a place where you scrum down with the kids, relax with a glass of wine at the end of the day or is it for entertaining your guests? Well the right flooring can help you make it all three. To do this you have to mix practicality and style; fortunately with today’s laminate flooring you don’t have to compromise on either. Top quality laminate flooring is less than half the price of a high quality woven carpet and has the added attraction of requiring the minimum amount of cleaning and after care which naturally appeals to a wide variety of people – from those with young families to busy professionals. Laminate flooring is scratch, stain, fade and even burn resistant. Spills wipe away easily and they look fantastic!

The choice of laminate flooring on the market is vast with products ranging from light wood floors like pine to dark wood floors such as walnut. An antique finish in a smaller room can create a rustic country cottage look with bags of atmosphere. In a larger room this finish can create anything from ultra modern chic to the feel of a medieval banquet hall.

Some of the most popular choices include beech laminate flooring and oak laminate flooring. You can even purchase laminate flooring that replicates the look and feel of traditional stone tiles making it an ever more popular choice in interior design. All these types of floors can be purchased from flooring suppliers with many offering discount flooring throughout the year.

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